Vietnam - Everything You Need To Know Before You Go

Vietnam is a small country that packs a serious punch. It has fascinating culture, history, stunning and diverse landscape, traditional hill tribes, ancient temples, friendly people, vibrant cities with rooftop bars, and some of the best food in the world.

Vietnamese landscape boasts tropical jungle, lush green rice fields and mountains, vast caves, the famous Halong Bay, the Mekong Delta, and golden sand beaches and sand dunes.

The famous Hai Van Pass journey from Hoi An to Hue

There is something for everyone in Vietnam and it is sure to leave you wanting more. Vietnam easily becomes a top favorite for many travelers, myself included.

BRIEF HISTORY

Vietnam has a rough history as a former French colony and then the infamous Vietnam War certainly didn’t help. The war was between the South (which was backed by the US) and the Communist North. The North won, so Vietnam is still under communist rule today; however, communism is still stronger in the North than the South. More on the Vietnam War later.

You’ll notice many Chinese influences and traditions in Vietnam due to China’s thousand year occupation. The two countries share similar cultures, languages, festivals, religions and “communist” governments (in name only, as they’re more capitalist, but with authoritarian governments).

MY EXPERIENCE

I traveled Vietnam twice as a solo female traveler and had VERY different experiences both times. My first time was 1 week trip in northern Vietnam in November 2012, and then a 3 week trip in the south and central regions in January 2020. Vietnam is a very unique and diverse country and now it’s one of my favorites!

But I didn’t love my first time in Vietnam and many travelers I encountered on that trip felt the same. Many of the locals we interacted with were extremely rude and disrespectful towards us travelers (i.e. blatantly ripping us off or selling us food that had gone bad, multiple times, and then laughing about it), which was not a nice experience.

However, so many travelers said Vietnam was one of their favorite countries, so I decided to give it another chance and I’m so glad I did. I had the best time, the people were lovely and it left me wanting more. A LOT more. My very differing experiences may have something to do with how the south differs from the communist north. Sometimes places deserve a second chance. The same thing happened when I gave Morocco a second chance.

Over my two trips, I visited Hanoi, Halong Bay, Cat Ba Island, Sapa, Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi An, Hue, Phong Nha and Ninh Binh.

Hoi An was by far my favorite place in Vietnam. It’s so chill, beautiful, colorful, cheerful and charming, the food is by far the best in Vietnam, every hole in the wall restaurant is delicious, the nightlife is insanely fun and it has the best shopping in Vietnam. The town became one of my favorite places in the world.

January 2020 was also when the corona virus became a problem, although Vietnam handled it very well and they were one of the first countries to open, despite sharing a border with China.

BEFORE YOU GO

YOU NEED A VISA

Most nationalities who are flying into Vietnam need to apply online for a visa on arrival. If you’re arriving by land from Laos or Cambodia, you need to arrange a visa in advance because Vietnam does not have a visa on arrival system at it’s land borders.

The price varies for how many entries you need and how long you want to stay. The average total visa price is around $50US, including the stamping fee upon arrival. The stamping fee at the Vietnam airport is payable in cash only. Bring US dollars.

You need to provide a passport photo for your visa on arrival, which you need to get before you leave.

There is no official website for the visa on arrival service. All the websites offering the pre-approved visa letter are private agencies.

TAKE DUKORAL

It’s an over-the-counter oral vaccine that protects you from traveler’s diarrhea for 3 months. This means you can enjoy street food, at discretion, without worry. However, Dukoral cannot protect you against parasites, which have very different symptoms.

GET TRAVEL INSURANCE

Travel insurance is an absolute must for all international travel. It offers a lot more than just medical protection- it covers you if your flight gets cancelled, a family member becomes ill or passes away and you have to return home, or if something gets stolen or breaks. And if you do get seriously ill or injured, it can save you thousands of dollars. Travel insurance isn’t cheap, but it’s also not that expensive, considering what it can do for you if you get in trouble.

I use and recommend World Nomads for travel insurance. They’re an affordable and reputable company and you can buy and renew an insurance policy quickly and easily online. As a Canadian, I find their policies cover a lot more than the other insurance companies in Canada and at a cheaper rate.

WHEN TO GO AND WEATHER

The best time to go to Vietnam depends on where you want to go because the weather varies A LOT from the north to the south. For example, in January the mountains in the north are around freezing, Halong Bay is chilly, Hoi An is perfectly warm, and Ho Chi Minh City in the south is VERY hot and humid.

Phong Na Vietnam — Volatile weather in Phong Nha in January

If you want to see a bit of everything, October to December and February to April are the best overall times to visit. The monsoon season is from April to October, with June to August being the wettest months.

Ngu Lam Peak Cat Ba Island Vietnam — The lush view from Ngu Lam Peak hike on Cat Ba Island in November

BEST TIME TO GO BY REGION

North (Sapa, Ha Giang, Hanoi, Halong Bay, Ninh Binh) – March to April and October to December

Central (Hue, Nha Trang, Hoi An, Dalat, Danang, Phong Nha) – February to August

South (Saigon, Mekong Delta, Phu Quoc, Con Dao, Mui Ne) – December to April, but the humidity is extra high from March-April, before the monsoon season.

The famous Hai Van Pass journey from Hoi An to Hue in January

It’s not recommended to travel Vietnam during Tet (Vietnam’s new year in late January/early February) because many things are closed for weeks, sights become extremely overcrowded and prices are higher. I traveled Vietnam during Tet in January 2020 and I do not recommend it.

COMMUNICATION

ENOUGH ENGLISH IS SPOKEN

So communicating won’t be a problem.

VIETNAMESE USES THE ROMAN ALPHABET

Which makes it easier for recognizing and learning some key words, but it’s a very tonal language, which makes it a difficult language.

“Hello” in Vietnamese is “xin chào” (sin chow) and “thank you” is “cảm ơn” (gauhm uhhn).

THE WIFI IS GOOD

But SIM cards are dirt cheap, so you can be connected all over the country, which makes your life easier. Viettel is a great provider.

THE COUNTRY, THE PEOPLE AND THE CULTURE

VIETNAM IS A GREAT PLACE FOR SOLO TRAVEL

There’s a backpacker circuit, so it’s very easy to meet people as a solo traveler, so you might never actually be alone, unless you want to be. I met great travelers to explore Vietnam with on both of my solo trips, so I was rarely actually alone (which is very common with solo travel).

DON’T UNDERESTIMATE THE SIZE OF THE COUNTRY

Vietnam looks small, but it’s packed with loads of diverse sights. And it takes a while to get from A to B. Cumulatively, I spent a month in Vietnam and there is still A LOT that I didn’t see.

YOU’LL LEARN THE TRUTH ABOUT THE US IN THE VIETNAM WAR (IF YOU DON’T ALREADY KNOW)

Americans love to rewrite history to be in their favor, but the US shouldn’t have been in Vietnam. The US was fueled by imperialism and racism, and they unnecessarily and brutally killed millions of Vietnamese civilians and injured over 5 million more. In addition, Laos (Vietnam’s neighbour) is the most heavily bombed nation on earth, thanks to the Americans. To this day, the effects of Agent Orange are still an ongoing issue and millions of unexploded bombs riddle the rural areas of Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia and they continue to kill and maim civilians. Despite America’s “efforts”, Vietnam is still Communist.

The War Remnants Museum HCMC Vietnam — The War Remnants Museum in Saigon

It’s highly recommended and worthwhile to check out a war museum or two.

IS IT SAIGON OR HO CHI MINH CITY (HCMC)?

They’re the same city- it was Saigon before the Vietnamese War and before Communism took over the south. It was renamed to Ho Chi Minh City after the Vietnam War, when the north and south were reunified. Officially, it’s Ho Chi Minh City, but many older southern Vietnamese call it Saigon in every day conversation.

THE ARCHITECTURE IS A UNIQUE MIX OF CHINESE, COLONIAL AND VIETNAMESE

In particular, you will notice the very tall and very skinny buildings called “tube houses” is Saigon and Hanoi. These are very unique to Vietnam and they were designed to help minimize taxes because each property was taxed according to its land width. In addition, extended families often live together, so it’s easy to build a few extra floors once the family grows.

Vietnam’s skinny buildings – photo from Pinterest (photographer unknown)

VISIT THE LOCAL MARKETS

They’re so full of life, culture, tradition, color and delicious food.

Market Vietnam

VIETNAM IS NOT BUILT FOR TALL PEOPLE

Vietnamese are some of the smallest people in the world and aside from noticing the obvious, you’ll also notice this with door handles, sinks, mirrors, night buses etc. As a 5’7ft/170cm female, I definitely noticed this.

Tall person problems in Vietnam- the mirrors cut off my head

HOI AN IS THE BEST AND CHEAPEST PLACE IN THE WORLD FOR TAILORED CLOTHING

A good custom-made suit in Hoi An will cost around $100US, whereas it would easily cost $1,000US+ in the US. You can stock up on pants, shirts, jackets, dresses and shorts. There are tailor shops all over Hoi An, ranging from casual to luxury shops with really nice fabrics. The more you want made, the more of a discount you get and you can bargain on the price. Your tailored goods will be finished within a few days (or less, if you need them quicker). And they can ship your goods home for you.

THE HOSTELS ARE AMAZING

If you’re a backpacker or budget traveler in Vietnam, the hostels are the best and an unbelievable value. At the best hostels, you can get a dorm room for $5-7US/night, which often includes a buffet breakfast, tons of free activities, a bar, parties and sometimes a pool etc, so a great time is guaranteed. Some of the best hostels in Vietnam are Cococha and the Tribee hostels in Hoi An, Vietnam Backpackers in multiple locations, Banana Tree hostel in Tam Coc (Ninh Binh), and Central Backpackers in Hanoi.

Tribee Kinh hostel Hoi An Vietnam — The daily activities at Tribee Kinh hostel in Hoi An. The majority are free.

Cococha Hoi An Vietnam — Cococha hostel in Hoi An

Central Backpackers hostel Hanoi Vietnam — The terrace with a view at Central Backpackers hostel in Hanoi

YOU MUST TAKE OFF YOUR SHOES WHEN YOU ENTER TEMPLES AND HOMES

And some hostels and guesthouses. This is common throughout Southeast Asia.

DON’T WALK AROUND IN A BIKINI OR WITHOUT A SHIRT

Vietnam is somewhat of a conservative country. You need to cover your shoulders and knees for visiting temples. This goes for men too. And public displays of affection are taboo.

THE NIGHTLIFE IS AMAZING

Saigon and Hanoi have great bars and clubs, but my favorite was Hoi An. It’s a lot of fun. And it’s casual and cheap.

CAVES ARE A BIG THING IN VIETNAM

They’re all over the country and Son Doong Cave, the world’s largest known cave, is located in central Vietnam in Phong Na-Ke Bang National Park. The giant cave was discovered in 1991, but it wasn’t explored until 2009 and it has only been open to the public since 2013, so it’s a “new” cave. The main cavern is over 5km long and it’s large enough to house an entire 40 storey skyscraper. The cave also has its own ecosystem with a jungle, animals, rivers, as well as its own weather system with clouds. And it has the largest stalagmite known to man, at 80m (262ft). You can visit the cave on a 4 day tour with Oxalis for $3,000US. Permits and tours are very limited so you must book well in advance.

Phong Nha caves Vietnam — Caving in Phong Nha

VIETNAM ISN’T REALLY A BEACH HOLIDAY DESTINATION

There are beaches in Vietnam, but they are not the highlight of Vietnam. If you’ve been to Thailand or the Philippines, you will find the beaches underwhelming in comparison.

DO NOT BUY EXOTIC ANIMAL SOUVENIRS

Vietnam has a massive industry that involves selling, exporting, and trafficking exotic and endangered wild animals. Avoid buying anything made from wild or endangered animals, like turtle shells, skins, and ivory, etc. It’s an illegal practice and contributing to it continues the demand for these destructive, inhumane and unsustainable practices.

Responsible tourism in Southeast Asia — Snake wine in Vietnam

BYOTP (BRING YOUR OWN TOILET PAPER)

Most public toilets don’t supply toilet paper (they use a “bum gun” or bucket of water instead), so you’ll likely want to carry a little toilet paper with you. They often don’t have soap either, so also carry hand sanitizer. You also can’t flush the toilet paper because the pipes can’t handle it. There is usually a garbage where you can dispose of it.

EXPECTATION VS. REALITY

HALONG BAY IS AN ENVIRONMENTAL NIGHTMARE

This picturesque UNESCO World Heritage Site is famous for its stunning limestone mountains rising from the emerald water and it’s Vietnam’s most popular attraction. But because it’s the country’s bread and butter, it has become savagely exploited and over-touristed. Consequently, although Halong Bay is deniably stunning, it has become extremely polluted and overcrowded to the point of being unenjoyable.

I booked a budget cruise to Halong Bay in November 2012 and it was pretty crappy. Everyone staying on the boat got bed bugs. I had to sleep in the dining room because we could literally see the bed bugs crawling on the beds, but they still got me even in the dining room. My boat cruise tour visited a very crowded cave decked out with rainbow lights and it was literally one of the tackiest things I have ever seen in my life, which is very symbolic of Halong Bay being ruined by over-tourism.

PHU QUOC IS OVERRATED

And over-touristed, overpriced and full of trash. Which is a lot like a lot of the Thai and Cambodian islands. Con Dao island is more untouched and more peaceful. So it depends on what vibe you’re looking for because Phu Quoc is full of parties.

NINH BINH IS ALSO OVERRATED

This is controversial, but this was my experience. Ninh Binh is often called the “Halong Bay on land”, due to the karst mountains rising from the emerald green rice fields. The pictures look stunning so I visited in January 2020, during Tet and after a storm, which made it INSANELY crowded, cold and rainy. These factors definitely didn’t help, but I found it to be very “meh” and that the pictures and Instagram make it look far more picturesque than it it. If you’re well traveled and if you’ve seen a lot of similar landscape and caves in Vietnam, Laos and Southeast Asia, you could consider skipping it.

MONEY AND COSTS

VIETNAM IS ONE OF THE CHEAPEST COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD TO TRAVEL

If you’re a budget traveler, you can easily travel on $20-30US/day, if you avoid expensive, overcrowded tours.

EVERYONE IS A MILLIONAIRE IN VIETNAM

The currency in Vietnam is the Dong and at the time of writing, $1US = 23,300D. And they don’t use coins. Because prices are in the tens and hundreds of thousands, it can seem expensive, but it’s really not.

BUT…

WATCH YOUR MONEY DURING TRANSACTIONS BECAUSE SOME BILLS LOOK THE SAME

A 500,000 can pass as a 50,000 ($21US vs $2US); 100,000 as 10,000; and 20,000 and 500,000 have a very similar shade of blue. Be extra careful while intoxicated.

Vietnamese Dong – photo from Tailormade Vietnam Holidays

IT’S A CASH-BASED ECONOMY

You will very rarely use your credit card.

LEARN HOW TO BARGAIN

Vietnam operates on bargaining. Get an idea of how much things should cost and bargain fairly. A few extra coins is nothing to you, but everything to a vendor. So don’t be a jerk, but also don’t get hustled.

GETTING AROUND

Vietnam is very well-connected so it’s easy to get around.

Traffic is crazy in Saigon and Hanoi. Saigon has the largest concentration of motorbikes in the world, which is a sight to be seen. This also means it’s very loud with constant horns. In Asia, horns are used to warn someone you’re coming, whereas the horn is considered offensive in western countries.

LEARNING HOW TO CROSS THE STREET IS A RITE OF PASSAGE

Forget Halong Bay, the most impressive sight in Vietnam is watching pedestrians cross the hectic streets of Hanoi and Saigon as hundreds of motorbikes speed toward and around them in every direction. If you’re a fresh off the boat traveler and you see a pedestrian cross a busy street in these big cities, it legitimately looks like that person is committing suicide because traffic is constantly coming at them from all directions and there aren’t any traffic lights or crosswalks.

The trick is to walk into the traffic at a steady pace because the drivers are very experienced, so you have to trust that they’ll drive around you. If you freak out and stop, that’s when accidents can happen. You can follow locals across the street until you feel comfortable crossing on your own.

Crossing the street in Vietnam — Crossing the street in Ho Chi Minh City

IT’S POPULAR TO BUY AND RIDE A MOTORCYCLE AROUND VIETNAM

So you have the ultimate freedom, but you have to drive on different roads, which takes longer than the bus. For example, a one day journey on a bus could take two days on a motorcycle.

RENT A SCOOTER

It’s hard to explore and travel Vietnam (and the rest of Southeast Asia) without driving or riding on the back of a scooter at some point. But I have never met a Southeast Asian helmet that fits properly. They’re always VERY loose.

USE THE GRAB APP WITHIN CITIES

It’s the Asian form of Uber. You can choose a car or motorbike to pick you up. Get the app here.

VIETNAM HAS CHEAP DOMESTIC FLIGHTS

But the smaller towns don’t have airports, like Sapa and Phong Nha, so unless you have your own vehicle, some long bus rides will be inevitable.

YOU WILL LIKELY FIND YOURSELF ON A FEW OVERNIGHT BUSES

They’re not the worst, as far as overnight buses go, because the seats recline into enough of a bed and include a blanket and sometimes a USB plug. You have to take your shoes off on the bus, which they provide a plastic bag for. But like most overnight buses all over the world, most of them arrive at your destination at 5am. Tall people will have a hard time on the night buses, so if you’re tall, you can lie at the back of the bus in the larger communal bed.

THE FOOD

Vietnamese food is sure to be a highlight of your trip because the country is the ultimate foodie’s paradise. Vietnamese food is known for its vibrant abundance of fresh vegetables, herbs and flavorful broths. Because of this and the minimal oil used in their cooking, Vietnamese food is one of the healthiest cuisines in the world. The dishes are light and fresh, they include contrasting textures, along with a balance of hot, sweet, bitter, sour and salty.

The cuisine draws from Chinese and French influences and it varies from North, Central to South Vietnam, due to the differing climates and lifestyles. Vietnam is one of the world’s largest producers of rice, so you can expect rice to be a heavy hitter in Vietnamese dishes.

I quickly fell in love with Vietnamese food and now it’s one of my favorite cuisines. The flavors, the fresh herbs and greens that accompany every dish are so delicious and unique. In my experience, Hoi An has the best food in Vietnam.

EAT THE STREET FOOD

You don’t need to spend a lot of money to eat well in Vietnam. Street food stalls and very modest restaurants serve some of the best and most authentic Vietnamese food. And it’s also a steal at only $1-2US per meal.

Street Food Vietnam — A simple, but delicious eatery in Hoi An

While eating the street food, you’ll often find yourself sitting on tiny plastic kid-sized chairs.

“CHAY” MEANS VEGETARIAN

It’s easy enough to be vegetarian in Vietnam. Vegan food is easier to find in the more developed areas.

VIETNAMESE FOOD IS NAVIGABLE TO THOSE WITH DIETARY RESTRICTIONS

See more in depth information on this in 17 Must-Try Vietnamese Food and Drinks

COFFEE IS A BIG DEAL IN VIETNAM

Vietnam is the world’s second largest coffee exporter, so they take coffee seriously, thanks to the French influence.

TAKE A COOKING CLASS

So you can learn how to recreate your favorite Vietnamese dishes at home 🙂

MUST-TRY VIETNAMESE DISHES

Phở – Vietnam’s famous dish is made with rice noodles, bone broth, bean sprouts and fresh herbs. And you can add chilies, lime and sauces to your liking. You can either get Phở Ga (chicken) or Phở Bo (beef). Traditionally, Pho is a breakfast dish, but it’s available all day.

Banh Mi – The ultimate Vietnamese sandwich (and one of my favorites) made with a fresh baguette, pork (or chicken and sometimes egg), pate, chili, cucumber slices, pickled daikon and carrot, cilantro, chilli sauce and mayo. It might sound like an odd combination, but it’s deliciously addicting. Banh mi is perfect any time of day, but it’s extra amazing as drunk or hangover food.

Cao Lau – Hoi An’s famous noodle dish (and my other favorite) made with barbecue pork, pork crackling, flavorful broth, bean sprouts, lettuce and herbs. Hoi An is the only place that makes Cau Lao because their lye well water is responsible for its chewy and delicious noodles.

Bun Thit Nuong/Bun Cha – Cold rice noodles topped with grilled pork, peanuts, and fresh herbs, greens and vegetables.

Banh Trang Nuong – This popular street food snack consists of a thin sheet of grilled rice paper topped with egg, dried pork, dried shrimp, green onion and chilli sauce, which makes a Vietnamese “pizza”.

Banh Trang Nuong Vietnamese Pizza — Banh Trang Nuong- Vietnamese pizza

Mi Quang – A turmeric noodle dish served with pork, shrimp, broth, fresh greens and herbs, peanuts. It’s my third favorite and also from the Hoi An area.

Goi Cuon – Fresh spring rolls (not fried, but those are good too!) with fresh vegetables,herbs and pork or prawns, and then wrapped in rice paper. Served with a side of hoisin peanut sauce.

Banh Xeo – A crispy and savory turmeric rice crepe stuffed with pork, shrimp, bean sprouts and… you guessed it- fresh herbs.

The Fruit is amazing! Vietnam has all your basic tropical fruits like bananas, mangoes and pineapples, but it also has all the funky and sometimes alien Southeast Asian fruits like jackfruit (one of my faves), rambutan, mangosteen, longan, starfruit, dragon fruit, rose apple, custard apple, passion fruit, and the infamous durian. Try them all!

Clockwise from top – longan, mangosteen, bananas, rambutan

ABOUT DOG MEAT – The Vietnamese do eat dog, but I’ve never seen dog on a menu. However it is more common in northern Vietnam at specific restaurants. Dog is actually very expensive, so it’s highly unlikely that it would be fed to you without your knowledge. The Vietnamese know how Westerners feel about eating dog, so they’re not keen on sharing this aspect of their culture.

For more information on Vietnamese food and drinks and how to navigate dietary restrictions, see here.

SAFETY

Vietnam is a very safe country for travelers, but there are some things to be aware of to stay safe. Do not let this list of safety precautions worry you. Knowledge is power.

USE YOUR COMMON SENSE

A lot of crime and accidents happen due to letting your guard down (pickpocketing) or being a little too carefree on vacation and letting go of your common sense. There are far fewer rules in Southeast Asia and other developing countries, which has major pros and cons. For example, just because something doesn’t have a sign saying that it’s dangerous or unsafe to enter or climb, does NOT mean that it’s safe.

staying safe in Vietnam — The top of this tower didn’t appear to be overly stable on Cat Ba Island

BEWARE OF YOUR PHONE, CAMERA AND PURSE AROUND PASSING MOTORCYCLISTS

Drive-by snatchings are a thing. Carry a purse with a cross-body strap to keep your purse in front of you and guard your things from pickpockets. This also goes for exploring busy places like markets and busy tourist hot spots.

BE AWARE OF POPULAR SCAMS

Vietnam is pretty chill, but beware of “free” services or acts that don’t end up being free and money switches, etc.

THE POLICE ARE CORRUPT

Every country has corruption and Vietnam is no exception. Police in developing countries see tourists as an easy way to make extra money through bribes. They will make up things that you’re doing wrong so they can demand a “fine”. This is very common when you have rented a scooter. A couple I met who motorbiked around Vietnam said this is a very common scam, but these scams stopped as soon as they attached a GoPro to their helmet.

DO NOT DRINK THE TAP WATER

Stick to bottled or filtered water.

For more tips, see How To Stay Safe in Southeast Asia

FEMALE TRAVELERS

VIETNAM IS VERY SAFE FOR SOLO FEMALE TRAVELERS

Like the rest of Southeast Asia, as a solo female traveler I found Vietnam extremely safe, but practice regular precautions.

LGBTQ TRAVELERS

VIETNAM IS SAFE FOR LGBTQ TRAVELERS

The country has become more progressive in the recent years, but it still has a ways to go. Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City have pride parades and there are gay characters in movies and TV. However, while same-sex marriage isn’t banned anymore, it’s also not legally recognized. Vietnam is still a socially conservative culture and many LGBTQ continue to hide their sexuality from their families. Gay travellers are typically exempt from the social stigma and usually find Vietnam to be very hospitable and welcoming. Be aware that public displays of affection are taboo whether gay or straight. There’s a pretty big gay nightlife scene in Saigon, and a smaller one in Hanoi.