- Money in Cuba – Everything You Need to Know Before You Go
- Varadero on a Budget and Without an Expensive Resort
- Viñales – The Garden and Cigar Capital of Cuba
- Trinidad – 10 Things to See and Do in Cuba’s Colorful Colonial Town
- Havana on a Budget – 25 Free And Cheap Activties
- How To Travel Cuba Independently and Without An Expensive Resort
Traveling Cuba is like traveling back in time to the 1950s. Before you arrive in Cuba, it can feel a little intimidating because it’s a little like diving into the unknown and it’s like how traveling was back in the day before technology, internet and hostels. But once you’re there, it’s fairly simple to navigate. You use telephone landlines and meet up with people the old fashioned way, by agreeing on a time and place, or you run into them by chance (which happened to me a few times).
I highly recommend you to travel Cuba independently. It will be a raw and challenging experience, but also an amazing and unforgettable experience.
MY EXPERIENCE
I traveled Cuba independently as a Canadian solo female traveler for 11 days, but the only time I was actually alone was in Varadero for one night because I always met other travelers to explore with. About half of my time was spent in Havana, and the other half in Viñales, Trinidad and one day in Varadero. Cuba is a massive island, so 11 days was barely scratching the surface.
Cuba is easily one of the best places in the world for street photography. The streets of Havana, in particular, are unique and full of energy, life and culture, which make it an absolute must while visiting Cuba. One of my favorite things to do was walk around Havana, observe life around me and take photos. It will inspire you. But this would all be missed with an all-inclusive vacation.
Cuba reminded me of Brazil because of the demographic of people, the fun culture and the dancing and the partying. But Cuba is much safer and cheaper to travel than Brazil.
If you split accommodation and transportation costs by not traveling completely solo (or travel solo, but meet people along the way, like I did), if you’re decent at bargaining and eat where the locals eat, to travel Cuba independently is much cheaper and much more authentic than an all-inclusive. It’s less relaxing, but it’s so much more adventurous and rewarding.
BEFORE YOU GO
EVERYONE NEEDS A “TOURIST CARD” TO TRAVEL TO CUBA
If you fly to Cuba from Canada, the tourist card will be included in the airfare and you’ll receive it at the time of boarding. For flying from everywhere else, check before you leave for your trip, but they’re typically very easy to obtain. Tourist cards are $20USD at the airport in Cancun and Mexico City if you fly from Mexico, like I did. The tourist card is valid for 30 days (90 days for Canadians) and it can be renewed for another 30 days (another 90 days for Canadians) for $25CUC/USD.
BUY TRAVEL INSURANCE BEFORE YOU LEAVE
You should always be covered for international travel, but Cuba may ask for proof of your travel insurance and if you don’t have any, you will be required to buy theirs, which won’t have the same benefits and coverage. I personally wasn’t asked for proof of travel insurance. And healthcare in Cuba is really good, if needed.
This map can be used offline, which is essential to travel Cuba independently. Download the app, along with the Cuba map within the app, before you leave for Cuba. Have the address of your accommodation for customs and for locating it upon arrival.
DOWNLOAD THE XE CURRENCY CONVERTER APP
And add Cuba’s 2 currencies and your currency, before you leave. This will make for much easier currency conversion and calculations.
AMERICANS CAN TRAVEL TO CUBA
The Cuban government does allow Americans to visit their country because the travel restrictions are only American rules. Regardless of American regulations, US passports are valid in Cuba. Most Americans fly from Mexico instead. I met a few Americans on my trip who did this.
GETTING IN
YOU NEED TO SHOW PROOF OF EXIT AT CUSTOMS
Or they can force you to book an onward ticket before letting you through customs (this happened to the 2 Australians I befriended on the flight from Mexico to Havana). If you don’t have a return flight already booked, use Best Onward Ticket where you can rent a flight ticket for $12US for proof of onward travel. I’ve used this a few times.
GET SOME CUBAN PESOS AT THE AIRPORT
In order to pay for a taxi to your accommodation. But don’t exchange all your money at the airport because it’s not a good rate. Wait until you can exchange the rest at a bank.
MONEY
CANADIAN DOLLARS, EUROS AND BRITISH POUNDS ARE THE BEST CURRENCIES TO BRING
Mexican Pesos, Swiss Francs, Japanese Yen, Australian Dollars are also accepted for exchange.
US DOLLARS ARE HIT WITH AN EXTRA 10% SERVICE CHARGE
THERE AREN’T MANY ATMS (cajero automaticos) AND THEY ONLY WORK FOR SOME TRAVELERS
Many nationalities can use a Visa cash advance at an ATM or you can try a Visa or MasterCard cash advance within a bank if it doesn’t work in the ATM.
CASH IS KING
It’s highly recommended to bring all of your spending money to Cuba, if possible.
I went to Cuba with the expectation that the ATMs wouldn’t work for me, so I brought all of the cash I thought I would need, plus extra, just in case. I traveled to Cuba from Mexico after traveling Central America for 2.5 months, so I brought Mexican Pesos, which were equal to about $800USD and I had a few hundred dollars left after 11 days in Cuba. It’s never ideal to carry this much cash on you anywhere in the world, but luckily Cuba is a safe country.
If you’re not traveling to Cuba straight from your home country with cash, you’ll likely need to withdraw your cash over a few days, depending on your withdrawal limit, like I did.
CUBA USES TWO CURRENCIES
Cuban Pesos (CUP) and Cuban Convertible Pesos (CUC). Locals call CUP “Coop” or “moneda nacional” and CUC “Cook”. CUP is meant for Cubans and CUC is meant for tourists.
“CUC” IS ON PAR WITH THE US DOLLAR
So when you see CUC, think in US dollars.
YOU CAN USE “CUP” AS A TOURIST
But you can only obtain it at a casa de cambio (exchange house), not the banks. Don’t exchange too much money into CUP because you will use it less than CUC and the things you can buy with CUP are extremely cheap, like street food, which can cost as little as 10 cents.
Use CUC for taxis, buses, accommodation and tourist stuff. Use CUP for street food, local stores and local restaurants.
If a price is listed in CUP, you can also pay in CUC, but this doesn’t work the other way around.
EXCHANGE YOUR MONEY FOR “CUC” AT A BANK FOR THE BEST RATE
Some banks won’t accept bills with small rips or tears. Expect long lines at the banks and exchange houses and always bring your passport.
COUNT YOUR CHANGE AND KNOW WHICH CURRENCY YOU’RE RECEIVING BACK
Every time there is a money exchange. Sometimes Cubans will try scam you by switching the currencies (i.e. you pay in CUC and they give you CUP as change). 1 CUC = about 25 CUP, which is a huge difference.
When I exchanged money at the bank, they purposely tried to short me a few dollars and they begrudgingly gave me my missing money when I pointed it out. This is very common practice in Cuba, even at an official bank. Obviously stealing is wrong, but it’s hard to hold it against them because life is not easy in Cuba. But if you continually let this happen, it could very easily add up to an extra $10-20US/day, which can end up being a lot over the duration of your trip.
A lot of this likely won’t make much sense until you arrive in Cuba. It is confusing at first, but you will get used to it.
ACCOMMODATION
YOU DO NOT NEED TO BOOK ACCOMMODATION IN ADVANCE
It’s very easy to show up in cities and towns in Cuba and easily find available accommodation.
STAY AT THE CASA PARTICULARES, INSTEAD OF HOTELS
These are similar to homestays and they’re the best places to stay when you travel Cuba independently. When you stay at a casa particular, you can expect a private room in a family’s home and usually a private bathroom. But sometimes you can rent out an entire apartment.
There is certainly no shortage of casa particulares in Cuba. The sign with a blue anchor on a white background on a building means it’s a casa particular and you’ll see these everywhere.
Staying at a casa particular is awesome because you get a sweet Cuban mom or grandma as a part of the deal! All of my Cuban moms at the casas I stayed at were such lovely people. Staying in a casa is a much more authentic experience than staying at a hotel and it provides an extra and necessary source of income for Cubans (and they still must pay a fixed fee to the government regardless of how many or how little travelers they receive). If you stay at a hotel, it’s expensive and overpriced and all of the money you pay will go straight to the government, so it’s an all-around waste.
Expect to pay around $10-12CUC per night if you have or if you can find someone to share with (but you will have to share a bed), or $20-25CUC per night if you’re traveling solo. Sometimes you can bargain a little with the price, especially if you stay more than one night. When sharing with others, I paid $10CUC per night for accommodation in Havana, Viñales and Trinidad (so $20CUC total for a room), and I paid $35CUC for one night in Varadero, where I was alone.
When you have a private room, you’ll get a key to the room, but you don’t often get a key to their home. If you’re sharing a room, you will likely have to share a bed. There typically aren’t any safes in the rooms, but it’s safe to leave your valuables. It’s extremely unlikely that your hosts would steal from you because tourism is Cuba’s bread and butter, but still exercise caution.
Breakfast (around $3-5CUC) and dinner (around $7-10CUC) is provided for an extra charge upon request, but you need to tell your Cuban mom in advance so they can buy the food. Don’t expect to have access to the kitchens in the casa particulares.
HOSTELS AREN’T A BIG THING IN CUBA YET
When I traveled Cuba, there were only two hostels in Havana, but now there are quite a few, so the hostel trend is catching on. There are a few hostels in Trinidad as well. Due to a lack of a hostel culture throughout Cuba, as a solo traveler, it can be more challenging to meet other travelers. Because of this, I highly recommend you start your Cuba adventure in Havana and stay at one of the hostels so you can meet other travelers to travel Cuba independently with, which is what I did.
TRANSPORTATION
TRANSPORTATION ISN’T CHEAP
If you’re a budget traveler whose currency is not strong against the US dollar, transportation will be one of your biggest expenses when you travel Cuba independently.
FLIGHTS WITHIN CUBA ARE EITHER REASONABLE OR EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE
If you want to travel from Havana to Santiago de Cuba, which is on the other side of the island, you will probably want to fly in order to avoid the 16 hour bus or train. However, a one way flight could cost you anywhere from $120-550US+.
GET AROUND BY BUS, TAXI OR COLECTIVO (a shared car or taxi)
APPROXIMATE TAXI AND BUS COSTS AND TRAVEL TIMES
(you’ll need to practice your bargaining and your Spanish for the taxis)
Havana to Trinidad – $100-120CUC by taxi. $25CUC by bus. About 6 hours.
Havana to Viñales – $80CUC by taxi. $12 by bus. About 3.5-4 hours.
Havana to Varadero – $10CUC each by taxi, 2 hours. Or 3 hours on a bus.
Viazul (the tourist bus between cities), taxis and colectivos are all around the same price if you have enough people to split the cost of a taxi or colectivo.
Also, the taxis are the old cars from the 1950s! And they’re huge, so you can typically fit 5-6 passengers, which helps for splitting the cost. But get used to inhaling some aggressive exhaust fumes in these cars. You can go to the bus station to find taxis and colectivos between cities.
Omnibus is the bus between cities that Cubans use, which are slightly cheaper, but slightly slower.
SO WHICH IS BEST?
Buses require more planning because they often only have 1-2 buses per route per day and they can sell out, so sometimes you need to book a few days in advance. If you have lots of time and are on a super budget, use Omnibus.
With taxis and colectivos, you have a little more flexibility with leaving when you want, but it can take time to find a taxi driver who will drive to your destination and agree to a reasonable price and you’ll likely want to be with a group to split the cost. If you take a colectivo, it can take time to find enough people to fill every space in the car.
If you take a taxi or colectivo instead of the bus, the money goes directly to the driver instead of the government. But taxis and colectivos can be hit and miss- sometimes they’re faster and cheaper than the bus, sometimes they’re the same, but sometimes they’re slower if you have bad luck. And sometimes you get hustled by your driver and he’ll take you to the nearest town before your destination and demand you pay an extra $100CUC to take you to your destination, or to get out and still pay more than the price you agreed upon (a scam I had become accustomed to after traveling Central America for a few months).
INTERNET
WI-FI IS RARE
So if you’re looking to disconnect from the digital world, your devices and social media etc, Cuba is a great place to do this. If you’re a digital nomad, Cuba is not the place for you.
WHERE TO FIND WI-FI
In the cities, you can find wi-fi in some parks and some hotels. You’ll know you’re in a wi-fi park when you see 100+ anti-social people immersed in their phones. You can buy a wi-fi card and pay $2CUC for one hour if you stand in a long line with your passport at the official store or you can pay $3CUC for one hour if you buy the wi-fi card off a dealer in a wi-fi park (which is worth the extra $1 to save an hour of your time). It seems like a shady transaction and it looks and feels like a drug deal, but it’s normal, legit and safe.
You don’t have to use the full hour at once. You can disconnect and use the remaining time later. Wi-fi cards are easy to get in Havana and Varadero, but they’re more difficult to find once you leave for the smaller towns. However, wi-fi is also harder to find in smaller towns, if you can find it at all.
COMMUNICATION
LEARNING SOME BASIC SPANISH IS VERY USEFUL
There is a decent amount of English spoken in Cuba, however, taxi drivers and the Cubans at the casa particulares typically do not speak English.
I speak a decent amount of Spanish, but I found the Spanish spoken in Cuba difficult. They often drop the “s” and the last consonant at the end of a word and they kind of slur their words.
FOOD AND DRINK
Let’s start with the good news first…
THE DRINKS IN CUBA ARE AMAZING!
The Cuban national cocktails include the Cuba libre (rum, cola and lime) and mojitos (white rum, soda, mint, sugar and lime). You can find rum for as cheap as $3CUC for a 26oz bottle and you can find cocktails for $3CUC at tourist bars. You can find even cheaper drinks at the bars for locals, but only beer, rum and soda. The local bars are decrepit, quiet and depressing places, but they can be a great way to talk to locals, if you can.
Now the bad news…
IT’S NO EXAGGERATION THAT THE FOOD IN CUBA IS OFTEN TERRIBLE
You’ve probably heard that it’s bad and I didn’t think it could be as bad as that, but the food is often a crime against humanity. It’s difficult to get many things in communist countries, so expect very bland, greasy, simple and low quality food. I’m curious to know how the food was in Cuba before its Communist days.
The milk in Cuba is often UHT and, therefore, intentionally sour and awful.
CASA PARTICULARES HAVE THE BEST FOOD
They’re huge meals, but they’re overpriced in comparison to what you could find in the local restaurants. Expect to pay around $3-5CUC for breakfast and $7-10CUC for dinner, so they’re reasonable prices if you’re not on a super budget and if your home currency is strong (as a Canadian, my currency is not strong).
IT OFTEN DOESN’T MATTER HOW MUCH OR HOW LITTLE YOU SPEND ON RESTAURANT FOOD FOR IT TO BE GOOD OR BAD, SO YOU MIGHT AS WELL SPEND AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE
This was my experience. Tourist restaurants are rip-offs once you learn the cost of food. It’s easier to eat on a budget in Havana because there are way more local restaurants than smaller towns. If you eat where the locals eat, you can find a good sized meal for $0.75-3CUC. Ice cream is $0.20CUC.
MANY MENU ITEMS ARE OFTEN UNAVAILABLE
You get used to hearing a very unenthusiastic “no hay” (pronounced “no-eye”), meaning “there isn’t any”.
IT’S OFTEN A STRUGGLE TO FIND FOOD AND WATER OUTSIDE OF VARADERO (and the other all-inclusive tourist meccas)
You cannot drink the tap water in Cuba, so Cubans boil it for their own consumption. Bottled water is very expensive for Cubans, so only the tourists buy it and it’s hard to find because stores, restaurants and bars often run out. Yes, places run out of water. It’s extremely concerning, but do not let this stop you from traveling Cuba independently.
So it’s very difficult to find snacks. Once in a while you’ll come across a “supermarket”, but it’s not what you would expect from a typical supermarket. Very minimal items are available and the majority of what you can buy is only useful if you have access to a kitchen, which you most likely will not have. The feeling of hunger (and hanger) is fairly constant while traveling Cuba, but when you do find a meal, it’s huge. If you’re traveling Cuba independently, it’s wise to pack loads of snacks.
Outside of Varadero (and likely the other all-inclusive tourist meccas), you cannot find chocolate, except for chocolate ice cream. Gum is also very difficult to find. I shared some of my non-Cuban gum with some Cuban ladies I met and became a hero.
IT’S VERY DIFFICULT TO EAT HEALTHY AND TO BE VEGETARIAN OR VEGAN
Even the rice and beans (a Cuban staple) is often cooked in pork fat. You’ll find a lot of pork in Cuba.
CUBAN DISHES
As with any country, I always recommend to research the names of a country’s dishes before you leave. Even if you speak Spanish, the names of the food won’t necessarily translate.
- Cerdo de criollo – Cuban pulled pork
- Congri, moros y cristianos or moros – The many names for the classic rice and beans. It’s a cheap meal option and you’ll find it everywhere. When cooked separately, it’s called arroz con/y frijoles” (rice with/and beans).
- Ropa vieja – Tender, slow-cooked stewed beef, which directly translates into “old clothes”. This has the potential to be really good, when done right.
- Batidos – Milkshakes
- Emparedados – Sandwiches
- Tortillas– Omelettes
- Pasta
- Pizza
- Ham and cheese sandwiches – “Queso” is cheese and “jamon” is ham
- Guarapo – Sugar cane juice, ice and lemon
- Homemade baked goods on the street cost $1-5CUP ($0.04-0.20CUC)
- Tropical fruit can be bought from street vendors with CUP. It’s helpful to pack a small knife with you to cut the fruit or you can borrow one from your casa particular.
- Ice cream is a popular treat, with 3-4 flavours to choose from.
I predominately ate where the locals ate and I never found a “Cuban sandwich”. The sandwich of Cuba appeared to be the ham and cheese sandwich, which you will find everywhere, along with pizza. The pizza is always soggy and pizza by the slice doesn’t seem to be a thing, so you have to buy a whole pizza, which takes forever to make. The ham in the sandwiches is very poor quality, like spam; the cheese is sometimes awful; don’t expect any sauce or mayo on the bread and the bread is almost always stale. It’s an unusual and pleasant surprise when the bread isn’t stale. So sometimes you end up eating only cheese and bread, and other times you end up eating stale bread. Sometimes you can find these sandwiches for $5-15CUP ($0.20-0.60CUC), so they’re cheap and already pre-made, so you don’t have to wait forever to eat.
THE COUNTRY, THE PEOPLE AND THE CULTURE
In some ways, it’s harder to meet people in Cuba as a solo traveler due to the lack of hostels; but in other ways, it’s easier to meet people because the lack of internet means more social, quality time with people.
Simple things are hard to find outside of Varadero (and other resort destinations), like medication, sunscreen, cosmetics, toiletries etc. You name it, Cuba likely doesn’t have it or it’s extremely difficult to find. And bring snacks. Those are also incredibly difficult to find.
EVERYONE IN CUBA IS GOOD-LOOKING!
Cubans are a very beautiful mix of people- black, hispanic, European, etc.
BUY CIGARS AND RUM
To enjoy in Cuba and to bring home.
CUBANS ARE AMAZING DANCERS
Cubans love to dance and they especially love to salsa. You’ll see Cubans of all ages dancing, even grandmas. And it’s lovely.
IT’S LEGAL TO DRINK IN PUBLIC
Which is nice for having a casual drink at the beach or the Malécon.
Which is surprising and confusing, but it further proves that Cuba’s communism and government do not work.
CUBANS HISS TO GET YOUR ATTENTION
It feels a little offensive and rude, but it’s not meant to be.
YOU’LL SEE BILLBOARDS OF COMMUNIST PROPAGANDA
Instead of regular advertisements.
And the Eastern Bloc, which is a trip because the depressing, grey communist buildings don’t match the colorful Caribbean architecture.
TAXI DRIVERS EARN HIGHER WAGES THAN DOCTORS
Aside from government officials, taxi drivers make the highest wages in Cuba.
BYOTP (BRING YOUR OWN TOILET PAPER)
The public toilets are filthy and don’t supply toilet paper, so carry toilet paper with you. They often don’t have soap either, so also carry hand sanitizer.
SOME LOCALS ARE MISERABLE, ESPECIALLY IN THE STATE-RUN RESTAURANTS
Communist life in Cuba is hard. Don’t take it personally.
Cuba is like a prince in a poor man’s coat; behind the sometimes shabby façades, gold dust lingers
SAFETY
CUBA IS ONE OF THE SAFEST COUNTRIES IN LATIN AMERICA FOR TOURISTS
As a result of the secret police network. But still exercise regular precautions.
SOLO FEMALE TRAVELERS
CUBA IS ONE OF THE SAFEST COUNTRIES IN LATIN AMERICA FOR SOLO FEMALE TRAVELERS
But still exercise regular precautions. Like a female traveler in any Latin American country, you will also get hit on ferociously in Cuba. Cuban men are very forthright and they do not care about age, height or size differences.
LGBTQ TRAVELERS
CUBA HAS COME A LONG WAY, BUT IT STILL HAS A LONG WAY TO GO
The Cuban government used to place gay people in labor camps. Now there are annual pride parades in Havana, so it’s becoming more tolerant each year; however, the gay community still lacks certain legal rights and the social stigma is still present.
THE DARK SIDE OF CUBA
Like many developing countries, these countries are great to visit as a tourist, but understand living there is a completely different experience. Remember that what draws us to the Cuban “culture” is the fact that they’re stuck in the 1950s, which is a cool, novel flashback for us, but for them, it’s a rough way of life. Communist countries have very dark sides to them and dark things happen behind the scenes that tourists don’t see. The lives of Cubans are under constant surveillance.
NEARLY EVERYONE WILL TRY TO HUSTLE YOU
The communist system does not provide Cubans with enough to get by, so everyone needs a side hustle and anything involving tourists is a money maker. Even an official bank purposely tried to short change me a few dollars. Always count your change and don’t be afraid to call them out if something is wrong.
PROSTITUTION IS A LEGAL, COMMON SIDE HUSTLE FOR CUBAN MEN AND WOMEN
Sometimes grandmothers will pimp their granddaughters and husbands will pimp their wives. People are desperate for money and a way out of Cuba. It’s an unfortunate reality and way of life. Varadero and the other all-inclusive resort areas are major hotspots for this because they’re tourist mecca. This is another reason to avoid these resort areas and travel Cuba independently.
BEEF AND LOBSTER ARE CONTROLLED BY THE GOVERNMENT
And they’re saved for tourists and government officials, so they’re illegal to sell outside of state-owned hotels and restaurants. The government will come into people’s homes to see if they have lobster and beef. If they do and they have tourists staying with them, it’s ok, but if they don’t have tourists staying with them, they’ll be fined.
DO NOT BRING UP POLITICS OR COMMUNISM WITH CUBANS
Politics can only be discussed if a Cuban brings it up because there are informants everywhere. If you’re lucky, they will bring it up. I had a few locals tell me they hate life in Cuba and how they want to leave. One Cuban told me his plan to go to Mexico in a few months. We both knew he would never come back. A young Cuban guy approached me on my last night in Cuba and told me how desperate he was for an escape. It’s heartbreaking.
Timeworn but magnificent, dilapidated but dignified, fun yet maddeningly frustrating – Cuba is a country of indefinable magic
I highly recommend you to travel Cuba independently. It will be a raw and challenging experience, but also an amazing and unforgettable experience. Writing and reminiscing about Cuba makes me want to book a flight back immediately. Cuba will capture your heart.
MORE INFORMATION ON TRAVELING CUBA
Havana on a Budget – 24 Free and Cheap Activities
What to Know About the Currencies and Money in Cuba
Varadero on a Budget and Without an Expensive Resort
Trinidad – Cuba’s Colorful Colonial Town
Viñales – The Garden and Cigar Capital of Cuba
Awesome post, Laura! This will certainly help me plan my trip to Cuba. And I’ll have to trade with you for some Canadien dollars so I don’t get hit with that extra fee. How annoying.
Curious – what hostel website do you typically use? I see you mentioned Hostelz.com and Hostelsclub.com. I’ve primarily used hostelworld.com and assumed most hostels were on most of the sites. Is it worth to shop around on other sites?
Keep thinking about making a triumphant return to Cuba with me!! I could use all of your expertise.
Thanks Stu! Well things are changing quickly, so by the time you make it there, the US dollar situation may change for you. And that goes for the hostel websites too. Hostelworld didn’t work for Cuba when I was there because it’s an American site. But it’s always worth it to shop around on other sites 🙂