India – Everything You Need To Know Before You Go

WHEN TO GO 

THERE IS NO BAD TIME TO TRAVEL TO INDIA

But it depends on where and when you want to go.  The south of India gets extremely hot and humid starting in March, followed by the monsoon season in June to September; while the north of India in the Himalayas can be -25C in the winter, but lovely in the summer from June-September.  Delhi has major extremes of 6C in the winter and 45C in the summer.  Do your research so you’re not surprised and unprepared because India is not hot everywhere, all the time.

THE COUNTRY

In many places in India, especially Rajasthan, there’s literally cow, dog and bird poop EVERYWHERE and the public toilets are repulsive.  You constantly need to watch where you walk and wash and sanitize your hands.

HYGIENE IS NOT A PRIORITY IN INDIA, SO YOU NEED TO BE A GERMAPHOBE 

You need to wash and sanitize your hands often and avoid touching your face.  This will help keep you healthy.  Most public toilets you encounter will be extremely filthy and lack toilet paper (they use a “bum gun” or bucket of water instead) and soap, so you need to carry hand sanitizer and toilet paper everywhere.  Consider the lack of usage of soap and then consider how many surfaces (including money) are touched in public.  Remember to clean your phone often too.

GET USED TO SQUAT TOILETS

Roll up your pants so they don’t touch the floor.

More so in the north of India, in the “cow belt”.   This means their poop is everywhere too, so you need to watch where you walk.  The cows are kind of like big dogs, they’re adorable and mostly super chill, but some can be aggressive.  I saw a cow savagely toss a local woman on the beach in Goa.

EXPECT A SLOWER PACE AND BE PATIENT

Things won’t work as quickly and efficiently as they do in your home country.  So don’t expect things to run as smoothly as they do in your home country.

POWER OUTAGES ARE A COMMON OCCURRENCE ALL OVER INDIA

Sometimes daily.

EXPECT VERY POOR AIR QUALITY

Pollution is a big problem, especially in the big cities.

YOU MUST VISIT AT LEAST ONE OF INDIA’S ANCIENT STEPWELLS

They’re architecturally stunning and I don’t know anywhere else in the world where you can find something like this.  There are quite a few all over India, particularly in Rajasthan and Gujarat.

FOR TOURIST SIGHTS, THERE IS A LOCAL PRICE AND A FOREIGNER PRICE

And the foreigner price is exponentially more expensive.  However, this is typical in most developing countries.  It’s frustrating because western countries could NEVER get away with this because that would be considered racist.  It’s understandable that locals should be able to visit the beautiful sights in their own country and to maybe charge foreigners a little more, but it’s a huge discrepancy in price which is why it’s not cool.  The Taj Mahal was the worst for this at 1100R/$15US (or 1300R/$17US including the mausoleum) for foreigners, but only 50R/$0.65US (or 250R/$3US including the mausoleum) for locals.

YOU CAN GET JUST ABOUT ANY MEDICATION AT THE PHARMACIES, WITHOUT A PRESCRIPTION, FOR A VERY SMALL FRACTION OF THE PRICE OF WHAT IT WOULD COST IN YOUR HOME COUNTRY

Have a parasite?  You can get antibiotics (Ciprofloxacin etc) for less than a dollar.  Eczema?  You can get Betaderm.  An 8-16+ hour overnight bus or train?  You can get sleeping pills (don’t judge me; I unfortunately do not possess the superpower to sleep well in moving vessels).  I spent less than $2 on medications in India, which would have cost me around $150 in Canada.

IN A LAND OF VEGETARIANS, INDIA SURPRISINGLY TREATS ITS ANIMALS VERY POORLY.  EVEN THEIR HOLY COWS

The sad truth is that the majority of the world treats animals very poorly.  Developing countries struggle to look after their own people, so unfortunately animals are not a priority and neither is animal cruelty education.  There are usually stray dogs everywhere and you’ll likely want to bathe, snuggle and adopt them all.  If you pet them, make sure you wash and sanitize your hands after.  But there is some hope with Animal Aid in Udaipur, an animal rescue organization that I highly recommend visiting or volunteering at when you’re in Udaipur in Rajasthan.  The animals will capture your heart.

DO NOT RIDE ELEPHANTS

And do not visit Elefantastic in Jaipur in India.  They claim they’re an ethical and animal friendly organization, but they charge 5,000 rupees ($66US which is an insane price) to see the same elephants that are used to ride tourists around Amber Fort.

VISIT KERALA, THE LAND OF THE BIGGEST, WARMEST, MOST GENUINE AND FRIENDLY SMILES

Kerala is a southwestern state in India that’s known for its lush vegetation and backwaters, beaches, mountains, ayurvedic spas and laidback vibes.  It’s also one of the safest regions in India and there is far less hassling here from rickshaw drivers and touts.

GET USED TO A LOT OF GARBAGE AND A LACK OF RECYCLING

It’s easy to forget that the education and dealing with garbage responsibly, recycling and caring for the environment are expensive.

 

GOA 

 

GOA IS MASSIVE

It’s a small state, so it’s not just one city or town.  There are over 30 towns and it’s a 3 hour drive to get from the north to the south.  The north is where you’ll find the parties, whereas the south is more chill.

GOA IS OVERRATED

If you’re a foreigner.  And it’s expensive.  If you’re a local, Goa is great because it’s an escape and a paradise where you can let loose.  As a foreigner, you’re constantly hassled and ripped off; it’s not easy or cheap to get around unless you rent a scooter (but if you don’t have an international motorbike license, you’re lucky if you don’t get fined by the police, which is actually a fake and corrupt cash grab targeting tourists); many of the locals working in tourism/cafes appear lifeless and unhappy (which is common in over-touristed areas and I don’t blame them); and it’s expensive.

And the nightlife is extremely overrated unless you’re into Indian music or psy trance (which is only great if you want to experience a throwback to a 90’s rave).  There is no in between.  However, another traveler and I wanted to go out dancing to a place without psy trance, but locals kept telling us to not go to the Indian clubs because they were “full of Indians”, which I thought was odd.  We went anyway, we were the only foreigners there and had a great time!  The music was fun and easy to dance to, everyone was dancing and so friendly and welcoming.  Highly recommended.  I don’t know how you could go to a country and not want to experience nightlife with the locals (if nightlife is your thing).

Overall, I found that Goa is another over-touristed tropical place where westerners flock to in order to meet other westerners, eat western food, and party with westerners while listening to western music, but at cheaper prices than their home country.  Give Goa a chance, but manage your expectations.  Also be aware that the yoga retreats are massive ripoffs.  More on that later.

 

THE PEOPLE AND THE CULTURE

 

UNLESS YOU BLEND IN WITH THE LOCALS, EXPECT TO BE STARED AT A LOT

India doesn’t have much diversity when it comes to ethnic minorities, so they’re not used to seeing people who look different from them.  You’ll feel like a zoo animal if you’re lighter skinned and especially light haired.  Locals will ask for selfies and photos, typically at tourist sights (which are crowded mostly with Indian tourists), but you can say “no”.  And many Indians will even take your photo without asking, so you also have the right to tell them off and to delete it (especially as a solo female traveler, when it’s Indian men taking sneaky photos).

THE HEAD BOBBLE IS GREAT

And it’s prevalent all over India, but even more so in south India.  This non-verbal communication which can mean yes, good, maybe, ok, I understand, or no, depending on the type of bobble.  It’s quite infectious, so foreigners who spend a considerable amount of time in India are likely to have caught themselves unconsciously wobbling their head at some point.

LEARN HOW TO BARGAIN

India operates on bargaining.  Get an idea of how much things should cost and bargain fairly.

YOU NEED TO BE EXTREMELY ASSERTIVE

If you’re not assertive, you need to learn quickly.  Salespeople and touts in India are relentless and don’t take “no” for an answer.  They continue to try 4-5x+ even after they’ve heard “no” just as many times.  Don’t let anyone pressure you into anything.  Being assertive gets easier the more you do it.  If you’ve been to Egypt or Marrakesh in Morocco, you’ll experience PTSD because the relentless harassment is similar.

LOCALS WILL ASK YOU INTRUSIVE QUESTIONS 

“Where are you from?” “How old are you?” “Are you married?”  And sometimes “How much money do you make?”  If these are questions you do not wish to answer, tell them it’s none of their business.

SOME LOCALS WILL FEEL RESENTFUL TOWARDS YOU IF YOU’RE FROM A WESTERN COUNTRY

They assume you’re rich and some will feel some bitterness and resentment towards your luxuries and easier way of life.  You’ll find that they often have a very unrealistic perception of the western lifestyle and wealth, largely due to the media and music videos etc.  They don’t understand that while our wages are higher, that our cost of living is also significantly higher.  It doesn’t matter if you’re backpacking on a tight budget, you will be viewed as rich purely because you’re traveling, and traveling of any kind is a luxury in developing countries.  You’ll get ripped off with the justification that you’re from a rich country.

THERE IS A BIG DIVIDE BETWEEN THE NORTH AND THE SOUTH OF INDIA

And even the far northeast of India because they are all so different.  The south is more educated than the north, which means they’re less populated, more affluent, they have less poverty and the women are more empowered.  They do not speak Hindi and they resent having to subsidize the rest of the country.  Yet north Indians look down on south Indians due to their darker complexions and the fact that they don’t speak Hindi.

RACISM AND DISCRIMINATION IS COMMON

Especially regarding Muslims, blacks, Northeastern Indians (who are more closely related to Southeast Asia, than India) and the different castes within India.

DO NOT GIVE TO BEGGING CHILDREN

As hard as it is sometimes, giving to begging children promotes a begging culture and it keeps them out of school.  Even the locals will tell you not to give them money.  And sometimes begging children are involved in popular scams.  If you would like to help out, it is better to do so through a local non-profit.

YOU NEED TO REMOVE YOUR SHOES IN TEMPLES AND HOLY PLACES

This is even true for places like the lake in Udaipur because it’s a holy lake.  Yet the ground is covered in cow, dog and bird poop…

 

WHAT TO WEAR

 

DRESS CONSERVATIVELY

(Aside from Goa).  As a woman, it’s not mandatory to cover up in India (unless you’re in a religious place), but you’ll feel more comfortable and it’s more respectful if you do.  Cover your shoulders, chest and knees, avoid tight clothes and it’s always good to keep a scarf with you.

GETTING AROUND

 

EXPECT LONG TRAVEL TIMES

This ties into having patience with a slower pace.  India is a massive country, so distances are far and when traveling from city to city by bus or train, even short distances come with very long travel times.  150-250km by bus can take 5-10+ hours because there are so many stops.  But many towns don’t have airports nearby, so flying isn’t always an option.  However, if you have the budget, you can hire a private driver, which is more time efficient.  Luckily, India is very well connected with buses, trains and planes.

MOST CITIES HAVE UBER

Which is great for avoiding rip-offs, especially the prepaid taxis at India’s airports.  But Goa doesn’t have Uber.

FLIGHTS WITHIN INDIA ARE CHEAP AND OFTEN A SIMILAR PRICE AS A 1ST CLASS SLEEPER TRAIN

However, many smaller towns don’t have nearby airports, like Hampi and Alleppey, so quick flights aren’t always an option.

 

1ST CLASS AC SLEEPER TRAIN AND BUS TRAVEL IS NOT THAT CHEAP

Especially if there’s a holiday.  And there are a lot of holidays.

THE TRAINS BOOK UP IN ADVANCE, BUT BUSES DON’T

Unless there’s a holiday.  For schedules and bookings you can use Redbus for buses and Make My Trip for trains and buses, but… they don’t accept foreign credit cards.  The Where Is My Train app will tell you if your train is running late or not.

IF YOU’RE A SOLO TRAVELER, YOU MAY HAVE TO SHARE A SMALL DOUBLE BED WITH A STRANGER ON A NIGHT BUS OR TRAIN

There are more double beds on sleeper trains and buses than single beds, and the single beds book up first.  As a solo female traveler, this also means that you could be sleeping beside a strange man.  I had to sleep beside a stranger twice.  Luckily, both times they were female, but the first time was uncertain (because my bus broke down so I was put on another bus) and the second time I had to pay an extra 500R ($7US) to be beside a woman instead of a man.  Booking sites will tell you if it’s a man or woman in the other bed.

THE SLEEPER BUSES ARE SOME OF THE BEST I’VE SEEN IN ALL OF MY TRAVELS

Because you actually get a small bed, whereas so many overnight buses in other countries are just regular buses driving at night, which means you have to try sleep while sitting upright in a chair.  However, if you’re tall, it will be less comfortable because at 5’7/170cm, I could just barely stretch out.

THE FOOD (AND HOW TO AVOID DELHI BELLY)

TAKE DUKORAL BEFORE YOU GO TO INDIA IN ORDER TO AVOID TRAVELER’S DIARRHEA

It’s an over-the-counter oral vaccine that protects you from traveler’s diarrhea for 3 months.  India is no joke.  Most travelers in India get extremely sick for days or sometimes weeks, and it’s not uncommon to be hospitalized.  This is not how you want to spend your vacation.  However, Dukoral cannot protect you against parasites, which have very different symptoms.  I spent 5.5 weeks in India and I did not get food poisoning, but I did get a parasite which was easily fixed with antibiotics.

YOU MUST BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT WHERE YOU EAT

In order to avoid food poisoning.  And you often have to spend a little more money.  I eat a lot of street food while traveling, but I ate far less in India.  I always tried to look up ratings of restaurants in India on Google Maps because you can get food poisoning from restaurants too.  Choose a busier restaurant and it helps if you see tourists eating there.

IF YOU HAVE STOMACH ISSUES IN YOUR HOME COUNTRY, TRY SOLVE THE ISSUE BEFORE YOU TRAVEL TO INDIA

Even without food poisoning, the rich and spicy Indian food will aggravate a sensitive stomach.

IT IS POSSIBLE TO EAT SALADS AT CERTAIN RESTAURANTS

Most travelers swear off raw fruit and vegetables in India, but you will miss healthier foods, fruits and vegetables.  Especially if you’re traveling India for an extended period of time.  Some highly rated (yet inexpensive) restaurants serve lovely salads and they’re very transparent about how they wash and treat their vegetables.  They often use bottled/treated/filtered water and a little vinegar, so it’s safe to eat salads at restaurants like this.

THE FOOD IS SPICY

Even if you request a dish with little to no spice, chances are there will still be spice in it.  If you’re not someone who likes any spice, you will find it spicy.

DON’T EXPECT TO EAT A LOT OF MEAT, ESPECIALLY BEEF

India is predominantly Hindu, which typically follows a vegetarian diet.  And cows are considered holy, so beef is especially difficult to find.  But not everyone in India is Hindu and there are many restaurants that cater to foreigners and Indians who do eat meat.

INDIA IS A VERY EASY PLACE TO BE A VEGETARIAN

Meat isn’t eaten in Hinduism, so it’s not widely eaten or available in India.

BUT IT’S MORE DIFFICULT TO BE VEGAN

With all the yogurt, ghee, cream and milk used in dishes.

THE FOOD IS DIFFERENT IN THE NORTH AND SOUTH OF INDIA

North Indian cuisine uses more dairy (like yogurt, cream and paneer) and breads (like naan and chapatti).  South Indian cuisine uses more coconut, rice and spice.

CONSIDER BRUSHING YOUR TEETH WITH BOTTLED WATER

But I didn’t because I kept forgetting… just don’t swallow any of the water.  Keep this in mind while showering too.

MEALS AT RESTAURANTS CAN TAKE A LONG TIME 

Unless it’s thali or dosa, dishes are typically made to order.  So choose wisely if you’re in a hurry.

MOST RESTAURANTS DON’T OPEN UNTIL 9AM OR LATER

If you’re lucky, you might find one that opens at 8-830am.

ALCOHOL AND NIGHTLIFE

HASH/WEED IS NOT UNCOMMON IN INDIA

It’s easy to find and while it’s illegal, the police will happily take a bribe if you’re caught with a small amount.  You can find Bhang lassis (edibles) in a few cities like Jaisalmer and Pushkar.

THE MAJORITY OF INDIA IS DRY (MEANING NO ALCOHOL)

Aside from the big cities and Goa.  And when you do find alcohol, it’s overpriced.

YOU DON’T GO TO INDIA FOR THE NIGHTLIFE

Unless you’re in Goa or the big cities.

MONEY AND COSTS

INDIA ISN’T AS CHEAP TO TRAVEL ANYMORE

It’s still likely far cheaper than your country, but it’s not as cheap as you might expect.  However, you can travel India super cheap if comfort and hygiene are not at all important to you.  You can take crowded local trains and buses for a few dollars, where you’ll have to stand for hours.  You can pay a few dollars per night and stay at guesthouses and dorm rooms in hostels that don’t clean their sheets and don’t have toilet paper or soap in their toilets.  And you can eat very cheaply if you eat street food, but you run a higher risk of food poisoning with street food in India.

I’m a budget traveler who stays mostly in dorm rooms in hostels, but I often spent about twice the price to stay at the cleaner chain hostels in India that actually have and use soap and toilet paper.  However, the majority of these hostels didn’t wash the blankets on the beds and they rarely provided a top sheet as a barrier.  In addition, the AC sleeper buses and trains can also get expensive, and you often have to pay more to eat at nicer restaurants in order to avoid food poisoning.

STAY SAFE

BE CAREFUL WHILE WALKING IN THE STREETS BECAUSE SIDEWALKS ARE RARE

So you could get hit by a car or rickshaw.  They don’t move. It’s no joke.

THEFT SEEMS TO BE LESS OF AN ISSUE IN INDIA

But still exercise regular cautions.

FEMALE TRAVELERS

 

I traveled India as a blonde, solo female for 5.5 weeks in February and March in 2020.  Everyone makes a big deal about traveling India as a solo female and I was certainly nervous, but I personally didn’t find India as dangerous as everyone makes it out to be.  And I took many night trains and buses alone.  However, this was my personal experience and I do not at all discount the facts and statistics, so that was always in the back of my mind.

I find India to be more obnoxious than dangerous, particularly northern India in the “cow belt” states, with people constantly trying to push their sales on you and not taking “no” for an answer.  And with people constantly asking to take my photo and men who would take photos of me without asking.

MANY LOCALS (MOSTLY MEN) WILL ASK FOR SELFIES AND TAKE YOUR PICTURE WITHOUT YOUR PERMISSION

But you have the right to say “no”, to tell them off and to delete it.  As a solo female traveler, I had to tell off many Indian men on a regular basis, but it always went well because it seems like they’re not used to being told off by women.

EXERCISE CAUTION DURING HOLI

Holi is a popular holiday with Indians and travelers because it’s a big street party where people throw colored powder and water at each other.  If you go, be aware that the colored powder is toxic and it will dye your clothes, skin and hair.  If you don’t want blue or pink hair and skin, cover up your hair or put coconut oil on your hair and skin to create a barrier.  Also be aware that the streets are crowded with drunk and high men, which makes a great environment for groping women.

 

LGBTQA TRAVELERS

IT’S NOT ILLEGAL, BUT IT’S NOT WIDELY ACCEPTED 

The LGBTQA community still faces discrimination and a lack of rights.

YOGA IN INDIA

IN THE BIRTH PLACE OF YOGA, I OFTEN FOUND YOGA CHALLENGING TO FIND

Aside from Rishikesh, the capital of yoga.  Finding a reliable yoga studio can be difficult because a posted schedule is rare and sometimes there’s no phone number or email.  They never respond to emails, sometimes you have to text the number a few times (via WhatsApp) until you get an answer, and sometimes they don’t respond at all.  And sometimes they respond that they’re out of town and sometimes if you just show up, they don’t show up or sometimes they decided to change the class time that day.  This is India 🙂  And some towns don’t have any yoga studios at all.

If you actually find a yoga studio with a schedule, the classes either start at 7-8am or around sunset.  But there are only sunset classes if there are enough people, which there often aren’t because people actually want to see the sunset.  So if you’re not a morning person who likes to watch the sunset, these are not at all useful times.  So I mostly did yoga on my own.

YOGA IN INDIA IS FAR MORE SPIRITUAL THAN WESTERN YOGA

With more focus on the mind than the body,  There’s a lot more focus on breath work, meditation and chanting.  Indian yoga teachers take yoga very seriously and they’re extremely knowledgeable and intuitive.  Hatha is the most common yoga style in India, and then Ashtanga.  You will have a hard time finding Vinyasa Yoga outside of Rishikesh because it’s a western style of yoga .

YOGA RETREATS ARE A MASSIVE RIP OFF

A basic 1 week yoga retreat includes 2-3 meals/day, yoga 1-2x/day and a shared basic room for $800US+.  And it’s a few hundred dollars more if you want a private room).  And this is only for a basic retreat.  You can spend A LOT more money for a luxury retreat.  You could make your own “retreat” by going to a yoga class 2x/day, feed yourself more than 3x/day, get a private room and a massage everyday for a week for a fraction of that price.

Alternatively, if you have the time, yoga teacher training is a far better value because 1 month is around the same price as a basic 1 week yoga retreat.  And you get way more out of the teacher training.  If you don’t have 1 month, an ashram is another place to practice yoga and meditation and it’s extremely reasonable at around 250R+/night ($3.50US).  But in an ashram, you have to follow a very strict and full schedule of rising before sunrise, meditation, chanting, yoga and “karma” yoga (i.e. help with cleaning) etc.  Expect a very conservative space with very basic facilities and 2 vegetarian meals per day.  The purpose of an ashram is to go back to basics, avoid distractions, unplug from life and become independent from regular habits, patterns and indulgences.

“ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE” IS INDIA’S FAVORITE SAYING.  And it’s a great attitude 😀

Also see What To Expect While Traveling Developing Countries