16 Things to Do and See in Fes

Morocco’s second largest city and former capital, Fes, is the greatest and most ancient of Morocco’s imperial cities. Within the walls of the medina is where you’ll find the oldest and largest intact medieval city in the world. With more than 9,500 narrow streets and alleyways, Fes is also the largest car-free urban area in the world. Located in northern inland Morocco, this UNESCO World Heritage Site was built in the 9th century and it’s home to the world’s oldest university. Fes is a medieval city with its traditions still living and breathing and it’s the place in Morocco to experience a trip back in time.

Exploring Fes is a major assault on the senses that will come with both positive and negative experiences. Not everyone will love it, but no one will be able to leave without a very memorable sensory experience.

EXPLORE THE MEDINA, OBSERVE LIFE AND GET LOST

If you want to have a full-on Fes experience, the medina is where you should spend most of your time. The medina and the life within it is very photogenic. Accept your fate of getting lost. GPS doesn’t work well in mazes 🙃

FES

JOIN A WALKING TOUR

It’s a great way to see the main sights and hear some essential history and stories as well.

VISIT THE TANNERIES

Of the 3 tanneries in Fes, the largest and most visited is Chouara Tannery. It was built in the 11th century and the tanning processes used back then are still used today. The smell at the tanneries is horrific, especially on a hot day (it was still fairly hot in mid October), so it’s a good idea to bring a scarf and maybe even some mint leaves.

Fes

MARVEL AT THE ARCHITECTURE:

BAB BOU JELOUD – Also known as the Blue Gate, which is the main western entrance to the medina. The blue represents the color of the city of Fes. The other side of the gate, which faces the medina, is green, which is the color of Islam and peace.

Fes

ZAOUIA MOULAY IDRISS II – The tomb and shrine for Moulay Idriss II, who ruled Morocco from 807 to 828, founded the city of Fes in 810 and was responsible for the islamization of Morocco. The shrine is considered one of the holiest in Morocco and it’s an important place of pilgrimage for Moroccans. You cannot go inside unless you’re muslim, but you can peek inside.
MEDERSA BOU INANIA – If you’re going to see one building in Fes, it should be this one. This beautifully restored architectural masterpiece was completed in 1357. And it’s the only building still in religious use in Fes that non-Muslims are permitted to enter.
AL-KARAOUINE UNIVERSITY AND MOSQUE (also written as al-Quaraouiyine and al-Qarawiyyin) – Founded in 859, this is the oldest known university in the world. Today, it still functions as Morocco’s largest religious centre, with a prayer hall that can hold 22,000. Its students are required to be Muslim and to have memorized the Qur’an in full. Again, you won’t be able to enter unless you’re Muslim, but you can peek inside and get a great view from the nearby rooftop terraces.
THE ROYAL PALACE – It’s still used by the King of Morocco today, so you can’t go inside, but you can marvel at the façade of the 7 golden gates and use your imagination for the beauty hidden behind the doors.

HIKE MOUNT ZALAGH

It’s so close, yet a world away from the hustle and bustle of one of the most densely populated areas in Morocco, is Mount Zalagh which offers great views of Fes and the surrounding landscapes

DRINK MOROCCAN MINT TEA

It’s a big deal as it’s Morocco’s national drink- green tea brewed with mint leaves and copious amounts of sugar.

Fes

GET A GOOD SCRUB AT A HAMMAM

And a massage, if you really want to treat yourself.

TAKE A COOKING CLASS

Moroccan food is delicious and flavorful.

SHOP FOR MOROCCAN TREASURES

Check out Seffarine Square and Talaa Kebira and practice your bargaining skills.

SHOP FOR OR JUST ADMIRE THE CARPETS

It sounds totally touristy and cliché, but once you go, you realize how beautiful they are. And how cheap they are, so you may even be tempted to buy one. They can fold them up impressively small to fit in your luggage.

ENJOY ROOFTOPS VIEWS AND SUNSETS

Whether you stay in a hotel or hostel, your accommodation will very likely have a rooftop terrace with great views of the city. And many restaurants do too.

CHILL OUT AND RELAX

Fes is much more traditional than Marrakesh or Casablanca, which means that nightlife is scarce. The riads (traditional Moroccan houses with interior courtyards) in Morocco, even the hostels, are really beautiful and peaceful and most of them have rooftop terraces for great views and relaxing. But hotels in the new part of town are a good option if you feel like a drink. The new part of town is where you will find most of the nightclubs and nightlife.

MY EXPERIENCE

I stayed in Funky Fez hostel in the medina. It’s a really nice hostel in a riad with a rooftop terrace for about $10US/night for a spacious dorm room, which includes breakfast. They also offer free walking tours (which I did), as well as tours to Meknes and the Sahara Desert etc.

I was not the biggest fan of Fes (see My Experience in Fes) as I had some really bad experiences there, but I had a significantly better experience once I met a group of 8 travelers who I traveled with around Morocco for a few days. But looking back at my photos of Fes, they remind me of the good, the unique, the tradition, the history and the medieval.

NEED TO KNOW

BE ASSERTIVE

You will come across some bad people who will be very aggressive, intimidating and rude with their demands for your money. Stand your ground and do not give in to their bullying.

FES IS NOT A SAFE CITY

But it is a must-see in Morocco because it has the largest medina in the world and it’s incredibly photogenic. There are now security cameras and plain-clothed policemen patrolling the medina for safety, which is new since I visited in fall of 2014. However, they can only do so much, so be aware of your surroundings, guard your things from pickpockets and educate yourself on the popular scams. Don’t walk alone at night, as a male or female, and keep your street smarts and intuition on high and alert at all times.

**Updated October 2018

YOU’LL EITHER LOVE OR HATE FES

I certainly did not love Fes, but I would give it another chance.

When you travel to Morocco, you need to be prepared with street smarts, knowledge of popular scams and a thick skin to counteract it all.

DAY TRIPS

MEKNES, VOLUBILIS and MOULAY IDRISS – 1 hour train to Meknes / 1.5 hour bus

ATLAS MOUNTAIN MONKEY CEDAR FOREST – Although not far from Fes, the altitude of 1250m makes the landscape and temperature seem like a world away from Fes. This forest is home to cedars over 400 years old and one of the sub-populations of the Barbary macaque (monkeys). You’ll have no problem spotting these monkeys, but be careful if you have food on you because they will find it and demand it. The tour also stops in the nearby towns of Azrou and Ifrane, Lake Dayet Aoua and for views of the Atlas Mountains.

GET OUT

CASABLANCA – 4 hour train

MARRAKESH – 7-8 hour train

CHEFCHAOUEN – 4 hour bus

THE SAHARA DESERT – You can visit the dunes of Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga. 3 day/2 night tours are popular, and offer many cool places to stop along the way. Coming back from the desert was over a 12 hour journey, including leaving the desert camp. You can also opt to finish in Marrakesh, instead of going back to Fes (or vice versa).