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Albania – Everything You Need to Know Before You Go

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Albania truly is a hidden gem and the Mediterranean’s best kept secret.  The country has stunning landscape, cultural cities and towns, delicious food, beautiful unspoiled beaches and coastline, mountains and hiking, ancient Ottoman towns and Roman ruins, compelling history and lovely people. Albania is still very unknown to most, which means it’s very raw and untouched, non-touristy and very affordable, thus making it a very ideal travel destination.

Tirana
Colorful Tirana

 

MY EXPERIENCE

 

ALBANIA IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE COUNTRIES!  I’ve been to Albania twice and I very rarely visit the same place twice, so that speaks volumes. The first time I went to Albania, it was a very short and very spontaneous 3 day trip. After 2 days on the coast of Croatia, I was over how touristy it was, so I took a 13 hour overnight bus from Split to Tirana. And it was so worth it, even only for 3 days and despite the fact that I vehemently hate night buses and avoid them at all cost.

I loved those 3 days so much that I went back to Albania, and the Balkans, 8 months later to explore more. The country is so unspoiled and I really needed to see more before that changes. And the Balkans is one of my favorite regions in the world. I would really love to go back to Albania for a third time and explore more.

The first time I traveled to Albania as a solo female traveler and visited Tirana and Shkoder, and the second time I took my sister along and we traveled to Gjirokaster, Tirana, the Blue Eye, Saranda and the surrounding area.  

the blue eye
Syri i Kalter – The Blue Eye

However, whenever I mentioned that I was going or did go to Albania (and Serbia, Bosnia etc, but Albania in particular), the reactions I received were confusion and alarm- “why would you want to go to Albania?!” and “what’s there?” and comments about kidnapping and stealing my organs etc.  I’m used to a lot of these ignorant comments due to the often obscure and unpopular places I choose to travel, but that doesn’t make them acceptable or factual. 

Saranda Beach albania
A deserted rock beach in Saranda

 

THE COUNTRY, THE PEOPLE AND THE CULTURE

 

MYTH – ALBANIA IS A DANGEROUS COUNTRY FULL OF CRIMINALS

This could not be further from the truth! Albania has a really bad reputation due to car theft and because of the movie Taken, which is extremely unfortunate. I walked around alone at night in Tirana, the capital, and it felt very chill and safe. Tirana is a lot safer than a lot of Western European cities, like Paris, where pickpocketing and often muggings are rampant.

FACT – ALBANIANS ARE SOME OF THE NICEST PEOPLE IN THE WORLD AND THEIR HOSPITALITY IS OUTSTANDING

And they will capture your heart.

ALBANIA IS A VERY SAFE COUNTRY

And so is the rest of former Yugoslavia.  In fact, all of these countries are safer than a lot of cities in Western Europe, like Paris where pickpocketing and mugging is rampant.  Most people don’t know anything about Albania, aside from the fact that it’s a poor country in Eastern Europe and that it was Albanians who were responsible for the kidnapping and human trafficking in the movie Taken.

After many discussions like this, including with many Western Europeans, one Western European admitted that if you’re a Western European and you tell people in Western Europe that you’re vacationing in Albania or another country in Eastern Europe, it’s assumed that you’re poor.  So this also appears to be a classist issue.

It’s a shame that many people let these factors stop them from traveling to these amazing, untouched places.  But it also preserves these places a little longer before they get overrun with tourism, like Croatia and the rest of Western Europe.

I found Albania to be very safe as a solo female traveler, but always exercise regular precautions.

ALBANIANS ARE GENUINELY EXCITED WHEN YOU VISIT THEIR COUNTRY

Because they get far fewer tourists than Western Europe.  Unlike cities like Paris, Rome and Barcelona etc, which are crawling with tourists, so locals are sick of your tourist shit. And for good reason.

FEW TOURISTS ALSO MEANS YOU GET MANY SIGHTS ALL TO YOURSELF.

Gjirokaster fortress
Wandering around Gjirokastra fortress

BECAUSE ALBANIA IS OFF THE BEATEN PATH, YOU MEET MORE INTERESTING, OPEN-MINDED AND ADVENTUROUS TRAVELERS

Which is always ideal.

TIRANA IS A VERY COOL CITY

It’s a charming, lively, colorful and vibrant capital city of nearly 1 million.  Any city that offers diversity, fascinating history, friendly locals, cafe culture, nightlife and hip bars will easily keep you interested and engaged, and Tirana has all this and more.

Tirana’s city centre is very compact, so you can walk just about everywhere and explore the city with ease.  Tirana also has a bike share program, like most major European cities.  I felt very safe in Tirana, even when walking alone at night, as a solo female.

WHILE ALBANIA IS 60% ISLAMIC, IT’S NOT A CONSERVATIVE OR RELIGIOUS COUNTRY OR CULTURE

I was in Albania twice, when Ramadan and Eid al-Adha (the two biggest Islamic holidays) were taking place, but I wouldn’t have noticed if someone didn’t tell me.

The Ottoman Empire converted the majority of Albania to Islam, but if you chose to stay with another religion, you were heavily taxed.  So most people agreed to “convert” in order to make their lives a little easier.  And then good old Communism destroyed religion, churches and mosques. Today, Islam is more a part of the culture, rather than a practice, as only 60% of Albanians identify as Muslim, and only 10% have been to mosque.

ALBANIA IS A VERY COOL MIX OF ALBANIAN, SLAVIC, ITALIAN, MEDITERRANEAN AND TURKISH/OTTOMAN INFLUENCES.

Gjirokaster
Ottoman houses in Gjirokaster – The City of Stone

ALBANIA IS ONE OF THE POOREST COUNTRIES IN EUROPE

They’re trying their hardest to catch up after 4 decades of isolation and it has been less than 3 decades since its borders opened.

WHICH MAKES ALBANIA AN EXTREMELY AFFORDABLE PLACE TO TRAVEL

Some examples- you can get a good meal at a restaurant for 300L (€2.60). I got a bottle of wine, 1.5L water, almonds, pumpkin seeds and cookies for 750L (€6). My second time in Albania, I took my sister and we lived well for budget travelers- we ate at decent restaurants, stayed in dorms rooms and shared a private room in a hostel in Tirana, visited trendy cocktail bars in Tirana and I spent €240 in 8 days (€30/day).

THE ALBANIAN RIVERIA IS WHERE YOU CAN FIND TURQUOISE WATER BEACHES IN EUROPE FOR CHEAPER THAN THAILAND

And it’s not full of tourists!

ksamil albania
Turquoise beaches of Ksamil

THE HOSTELS ARE EXTREMELY CHEAP AND HIGHLY RATED

Most hostels have a 9-10/10 rating, which makes it really hard to choose a hostel! This is really impressive considering tourism is newer in Albania. They’ve really nailed the perfect hostel formula with amazing hospitality, delicious free breakfasts, chill vibes and laid-back outdoor spaces. I stayed in a dorm room in a hostel in the centre of Tirana for €8 per night. And many hostels offer hostel family dinners for a small fee.

Tirana Albania
The view from my hostel roof top in Tirana – Homestel Hostel

IF YOU WANT TO VISIT KOSOVO BY LAND, COMING FROM ALBANIA (OR MACEDONIA) IS THE BEST AND EASIEST WAY

And I highly recommend going. Even though Kosovo is ethnically Albanian, the country is totally different from Albania.

ALBANIAN FOOD IS A MIX OF TURKISH, MEDITERRANEAN, ITALIAN, SLAVIC AND GREEK, SO IT’S OBVIOUSLY AMAZING 

Think lots of grilled meats and vegetables, stuffed peppers, cheese, seafood on the coast, Turkish bakeries, and amazing fruit and vegetables due to the Mediterranean climate.  They actually eat vegetables in Albania, unlike the rest of Eastern Europe and the Balkans (in my experience as a tourist), which is really exciting after surviving off of meat, grease, bread, and other various carbs!  It’s odd that the rest of the Balkans barely eat vegetables because the Mediterranean climate grows the best vegetables.
 
Gjirokaster
An Albanian feast

THROUGHOUT THE CENTURIES, ALBANIA HAS BEEN CONQUERED BY THE ROMANS, OTTOMANS, ITALIANS, GERMANS AND RUSSIANS

The history is fascinating and the blend of different cultures has very much shaped Albania’s culture today.  

YOU NEED TO KNOW WHO ENVER HOXHA IS

See below.

ALBANIA’S HISTORY IN THE LAST CENTURY IS INSANE

Mostly because Albania’s communist dictator, Enver Hoxha, was insane and he made Albania super communist and kept the country isolated from the rest of the world for 4 decades. In the late 1970s, Hoxha severed ties with Albania’s only allies, Russia and then China, because he thought they weren’t communist enough, which left Albania in complete isolation.

As a result, Albania became a completely contained and independent country, with no imports or exports, which was like living in jail. No one was allowed in and no one was allowed out; there wasn’t enough food; there were terrifying prison and labour camps; collective punishment was practiced, meaning if a family member escaped or attempted to escape, their entire family would pay the violent price; anything against the regime was punishable by death; 1 in 3 people was an informant; they were taught that westerners were evil and to be shot immediately if found. Enver Hoxha’s tyrannical communist regime is comparable to present day North Korea.

Tirana Communist Pyramid
The Communist Pyramid in Tirana

ALBANIANS DIDN’T HAVE CARS, BANANAS OR JEANS (AND MUCH, MUCH MORE) UNTIL THE 1990S

After the fall of communism.

Tirana albania berlin wall
A piece of the Berlin Wall is a reminder to never do the whole Communist thing again and to commemorate the victims of the regime

ALBANIA HAS 700,000 BUNKERS ALL OVER THE COUNTRY

Which works out to be 1 for every 4 people.

albania bunker

ISMAIL KADARE IS A VERY FAMOUS ALBANIAN WRITER

Kadare’s themes are influenced by Albanian life, history and politics, which were very brave topics during the Communist regime and censorship. His books have been translated into about 30 different languages.

ALBANIA PRACTICES A PATRIARCHAL SOCIETY

So you’ll notice more men than women in the streets, cafes and bars, especially at night. There are even some cafes and bars for men only.

Gjirokaster
Gjirokaster

YOU CAN BUY ANTIQUES FOR SUPER CHEAP PRICES.

An antique store in Gjirokastra

MOTHER THERESA IS ALBANIAN

And they are fiercely proud of this.

ALBANIANS LOVE AMERICANS

Albanians are the most pro-American nation in Europe because America helped Albania a few essential times during the 20th century, which helped keep their independence.

YOU CANNOT EXCHANGE THE CURRENCY ONCE YOU LEAVE ALBANIA

CASH IS USED FOR JUST ABOUT EVERY TRANSACTION unless you’re staying at a very upscale hotel and eating at upscale restaurants.

Gjirokaster Albania
Gjirokaster

 

COMMUNICATION

 

THE ALBANIAN LANGUAGE IS COMPLETELY UNIQUE AND UNLIKE ANY OTHER LANGUAGE

And it’s a very difficult language.

LUCKILY MANY ALBANIANS SPEAK ENGLISH

Especially the younger generation.  The older generations don’t speak as much English. And many Albanians speak Italian, due to the past Italian influence.

 

GETTING IN

 

AT THIS TIME, ALBANIA ONLY HAS ONE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Which is in Tirana. But if you want to start your trip in the north of Albania, you can fly into Podgorica, Montenegro and then take a bus. If you want to start in the south of Albania, you can fly into Corfu, Greece and take the 1.5 hour ferry over to Saranda. Or you can fly into Lake Ohrid in Macedonia if you want to start in central Albania.

 

GETTING AROUND

 

ALBANIA DOESN’T HAVE ANY TRAINS, SO YOU TAKES BUSES OR SHARED VANS FROM CITY TO CITY

A small country means short distances and short, easy bus rides.

THERE AREN’T REALLY ANY PROPER BUS STATIONS IN ALBANIA

My first time in Albania, I took a 13 hour night bus to Albania from Croatia and got dropped off on the side of the road in Tirana.  Luckily, I researched this in advance, so I actually knew where I would get dropped off, so it is more organized than it sounds. In Tirana, there are designated areas/parking lots for buses going north and south. In the smaller towns, there are designated areas for catching a bus or shared taxi to another town. This might sound complicated, uncertain and intimidating, but don’t worry, people will tell you where to go, so it’s easy and much more organized than it sounds.

Shkoder
Shkoder

 

WHEN TO GO

 

Albania has a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters.  In the highlands, snow can fall from November until March.  Late spring to early summer and late summer to early fall are great times to visit.  However, if you want the beach parties on the coast, you’ll want to go in July and August, during high season when it’s very hot and more crowded.  

I traveled Albania twice- once in mid-September, which had very warm days and warm to cool nights; and the second time in early June which was fairly hot at nearly 30C during the days.

 

SAFETY

 

AVOID DRINKING THE TAP WATER

Drink filtered or bottled water instead. In some places, it’s ok to drink the tap water, but ask the locals first.

YOU CAN’T TAKE A CAR RENTAL FROM GREECE TO ALBANIA

Because Albania is notorious for car theft.

IF YOU RENT A CAR IN ALBANIA, GET INSURANCE

Albanians are famous for stealing David Beckham’s car. They are also fiercely proud of this.

 

FEMALE TRAVELERS

 

As mentioned earlier, Albania is completely safe to travel as a solo female.  

 

LGBT TRAVELERS

 

It is legal, but there are some negative attitudes towards the LGBT community, they have less rights and same-sex marriage is not recognized.  

 

2 thoughts on “Albania – Everything You Need to Know Before You Go

  • Nikki May 28, 2019 at 9:13 AM Reply

    We should go back 🙂

    • thetravelinggypsy May 28, 2019 at 10:22 AM Reply

      Yes please!

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